Be interesting to see if the bang for your buck as the intake manifolds that actually work seem to go for roughly 2k. I would like to see a before and after dyno of a built head and cams and then adding an aftermarket intake manifold on to the head. 1 place says you need custom pistons with reliefs for the valves, others say stock piston is fine.Īnyone know how the stock bottom end likes 8200rpm? It's only 1k more than stock so it's not that crazy to think you don't need a built motor to handle 8200rpms. How much more does the fully supertech springs add to the bottom line?Ĭan anyone confirm you can use the high lift with the stock pistons? I have read conflicting information. I could think the reason most shops do it is because you are in there already and the cost to redo it would be prohibitive. If the stock springs prevent valve float and you at keeping the stock rev limit I don't see why you would need to upgrade. I would say that going the high lift cam route should be left for a fully built engine with ported head so you can rev out to 8K RPM and go crazy like Performance due to needing to pull the head off either way and the costs associated with a fully new valvetrain and engine work. The LL cams dont require the head coming off at all, even with upgrading part of your valve train, but you'll still get the benefits of increased flow to your turbos across the power band and increasing your rev range by ~3-500 RPMs which can help a lot in many forms of racing. 5mm, the LL cams will give you the most benefits across the range if you're looking for an "overall performance:cost" ratio. upgraded valvetrain both springs and valves, possibly having to replace pistons?)Īs I said before, I suspect due to the very nature of the cams and how the duration is actually higher on the LL cams than the HL while the lift difference is only.
Diy flycut pistons mods#
High lift cams with proper supporting mods (i.e.
low lift cams/LL cams with upgraded springsĤ. ported head stock VT (assuming you have a drop-in head fully assembled and only are focusing on an increase in peak HP)Ģ. IMO if you're looking at it from solely a peak HP perspective, the order would of "bang for buck" with a serious focus on cost would be:ġ.
I suppose it could fall under a "preventative mod" or "future maintenance" if you plan on installing cams eventually, but otherwise that seems silly to in regards to your most recent inquiry, I would say ported head and low lift cams will be more beneficial than the other options all day every day. Or you could take it to a shop that is has pleanty of knowledge in the Rat or splay valve engine build area.Click to expand.Yeah, I'm not too sure on that either lol.
If number is negative there is an optional step of pounding head against punch mounted in vise. Subtract the amount that you need to remove to make you happy and this will be the resulting end thickness. Record the measurements that you get in the area you are wanting to cut. Walk your piston in between the indicator and the punch. Make sure every thing is solid and repeats "0" when cycled. Position the indicator so that the tip touches the tip of the punch. You will need a piston "dome checker" or a the shade tree equivilant of a bench vise, long punch, and magnetic base mounted long travel dial indicator.
These pistons can make a great foundation for a reliable engine! Just don't expect to fill'er up with 93 Octain and be happy! If the tech line can't help it is real easy to measure the thickness of the piston. The time to do this is when they are out of the engine. Call Speed-Pro and tell them what you are wanting to do and they can help. No.No.! The point is to know match your components and get your combination outlined before you start.
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